What about us guys?

[Kiyoaki]

This is an invitation to discuss men's kimono among us guys. Despite the typically sober limits of color, weave, and decoration I think we should stand the conventions on their collective heads. Who says a guy 'can't' or 'shouldn't' wear red, or purple, or bright greens?

When I was living in Seattle during the 1980's, my boss (who knew I had an interest in wearing nice kimono), once loaned me one of his outfits. It was an Oshima-tsumugi kosode and haori, in a fresh bamboo green. He had bought it perhaps 10-15 years earlier and was too old to wear it properly. He was, however, saving it for his son to wear.

I was allowed to borrow it for a museum reception at a major Asian art exhibit and made quite a stir with it. One of the the curators from San Francisco (a woman) had flown up to attend the reception. She was smartly dressed (I thought) in an ivory, chirimen kosode with a yuzen-zome iris motif. When I was introduced to her by a mutual friend, she looked at me in the kimono and said that she was embarassed to be seen in my company because her 'modest' kosode was out distanced by the outfit I was wearing.

My boss showed up in a rich black tsumugi kosode, with matching haori, and a plain white shibori obi made from a double-width length of silk. Although he was dressed very 'casually' for the occasion, the obi alone probably cost him several thousand dollars at wholesale.

This combination is also typical garb for the 'yakuza', or mob element in Japan when they are not wearing suits. My boss had eccentric tastes in kimono to say the least. I think those tastes rubbed off on me. Between the two of us, I'm certain we set some tongues to wagging. I was relatively naive about such things and committed a faux pas by wearing a formal white 'haori-jime', instead of a more subdued color with my 'casual' outfit.

Over the years there have been other occasions when I have turned myself out with juban, kosode, haori, and hakama. I often select a white 'rinzu' kosode over a grey juban, with black 'sha' haori, so the damask pattern of the kosode can be seen through the haori. The shifting layers of silk create an interference pattern, which looks like a moire weave. That combination is a traditional summer 'look', which is simple, but so striking an effect.

Recently I've added a 'ro' hakama in traditional cut to my wardrobe. It's divided so each leg actually goes into its' own pant. The voids in the weave run vertically, instead of horizontally as they would in most kosode. Now I have another variation that I can try.

As if that weren't enough, I've finally found a black hakama with medallions of young pine seedlings done in a metallic gold thread. These are the formal type with a continuous pleated skirt, and was probably intended for a bridegroom. I can garauntee these won't wait for a wedding before they are baptized.

Come on guys, tell all! What would you really rather be wearing instead of the dull browns and blues that seem to be our due nowadays.

Kiyoaki

[AndyZ]

Kyo-aki san,

First may I thank you for your very informative reply to my posting about identifying kimono fibres. I'm sure it will be a great help in understanding the construction of Japanese textiles.

I agree with you that being male should not be a restriction to colour in clothing, and to date, my kimono collection consists almost entirely of women's and boy's kimono, mainly because as a designer I am interested in the colour combinations used. The best of Japanese fabrics, I feel, are without equal in the world. Happy the men in the old woodblock prints, who felt free to don clothing that competed easily with the women's, in colour, design, style and elegance!

Clothing in the west has changed a great deal since I was a child. Men are now comfortable wearing colours that would have raised eyebrows in the first half of the 20th century. Old men still cling to the drab, but generally men are a lot more adventurous than they were. Perhaps there should be a trend to more colour and fabric designs in men's kimono. Though having said that, I'd still prefer to see the most sombre haori and hakama worn, than the western suit and tie.

My collection has grown out of a respect for the wonderful artists and crafts-people who created such superb items of clothing. I feel the kimono has to be the worlds most beautiful garment. Though I don't personally wear kimono, as I feel I can't do them justice, (I'm not sure if it's about looks or not moving correctly -in any case, I somehow don't look right, even though the man's haori I have is excellent), I like to surround myself with them as I work. My collection has been a great source of pleasure and inspiration to me, on many levels.

If you have any hints to give, on how to wear men's kimono with confidence, I for one would be glad to hear them. If I ever have the occasion to wear kimono to an event or social function, I would want to do so as if it was the most natural thing in the world... Thank you Kyoaki, for starting such an interesting topic!    

[Kiyoaki]

Dear AndyZ,

I think the best way to gain confidence in wearing a kimono is to wear it often. That may sound like a tautology, but let me offer a practical suggestion. Buy yourself a 'yukata' (cotton kimono) and a heko obi and wear it at home. Eat, relax, and sleep in it. Work in one even, if you're able to do so. If that's not practical, try a 'hanten' instead.

By wearing it often, you'll become familiar and comfortable with the limitations of the clothes and adapting yourself to them will become second nature. In time, you'll cease to think of it as alien, and should feel totally at ease in kimono.

Following that stage you can graduate to wearing a haori and then hakama if you wish. Gradually add each article until everything is familiar and comfortable (at least psychologically). Don't forget to add 'tabi' and 'kaku' obi if you intend to wear a full, formal outfit. On a practical note, try to use cotton or polyester garments at this early stage so that laundering isn't a major concern.

Special Occasions

When I anticipate wearing kimono for a special occasion, I have a 'dress rehearsal' a few days beforehand. I practice getting completely dressed and check my appearance in a mirror. I also walk about and practice sitting in chairs to see if things are too tight (or loose). When I'm satisfied with the result, I put everything away until the actual occasion arrives.

If you have this kind of rehearsal beforehand, when you dress yourself later you'll do it with less hesitantcy and that will translate into a greater sense of confidence as well. You'll also learn how to dress with greater speed and efficiency while also working out practical details as well.

The Out of Body Experience

On another note, try viewing some Japanese movies that are set in the Edo Period. Study the mannerisms of the actors as they perform their roles in various styles of dress. Pick a character, who you feel reflects your personality and copy the way he moves and wears his clothes. This kind of imaging technique can help you to anticipate how others might perceive you and dispell some of your misgivings about wearing Japanese clothing.

Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Ichiro-san,

I hope you find this reply to your question about an alternative to the kaku-obi. The simplest one I can suggest is the heko-obi. You have sold a few of them already, but for the sake of others who may not be familiar with them, let me include some remarks that might prove helpful.

A man's heko-obi is typically a length of silk approximately 3 meters in length and double the standard width (27"). Most often it's dyed black or brown and has bands of shibori decoration at both ends. The material might have either a crepe or satin finish and is equivalent to a woman's 'obi-age', but differs in color, length, and style of decoration.

It is wrapped twice around the waist, in order to hold the kimono closed. Then the ends are knotted in a loose bow or slip-knot. Most commonly, this kind of obi is worn with yukata in the late summer months when the 'o-bon' festivals (?) are held in the countryside.

Most people start wrapping the obi by holding one end at shoulder level, then winding it about their waist twice. If done this way, the trailing end usually gets tangled about the ankles, which makes for a nuisance.

An alternative method is to first find the mid-point of the obi and place it over the navel. Draw both ends around to the back by allowing the lengths to slip thorough your fingers, and cross one over the other in back. You should then draw the remaining lengths back to the front by switching the ends in your hands, then recross them once again.

Before tying the knot, tuck one loose end under all the windings to collect them into a cohesive band, which prevents gaps from developing. At this point either a bow or slip-knot can be tied to secure the ends of the obi. Once this is done, the windings (as a group) can be pulled to the right until the knot comes to rest in back.

If you've closed the front of the kimono properly [the right lapel is covered by the left one], you will not have a problem. If the front of the kosode bunches up, you're either pulling the obi in the wrong direction or your lapels are crossed incorrectly. If you want to save yourself this last step, then begin at the back and tie the knot behind you without looking.

For myself, I start at the front, cross the ends in back, then a second time at the front, before drawing the ends to the rear for a third time. But, instead of tying a knot, I simply lay one loose end over the windings and tuck it under them to anchor one length. The other length is then tucked under the windings before it is drawn outside and then retucked at the top.

My reason for doing it this way is two-fold. If you sleep in the kimono, you won't have a knot at the small of your back to bother you. Also, when people tie their knots, they tend to cinch it tightly, which stretches out the dimples from the shibori process.

The second point may seem like a trivial issue, but I sometimes use a heko-obi, which is completely covered in shibori. If I tied it in knots all the time, the knot itself would be very bulky and unsightly, but more importantly, very quickly the dimples would be distorted and permanently stretched out, which would ruin the obi's appearance.

This reply probably covers more than you were expecting, but once I start on a topic, it becomes difficult to know when to stop. One thing seems to lead to another, and everything seems to be interconnected. For myself, the fullest description is the most desirable, so I follow that principle when I respond questions. That way, I also hope to anticipate questions as well.

Kiyoaki

[Kou Hiko]

I'm not a guy but I'm going to write here anyways.

It is such a relief to find a man who dresses in kimono. I have never been to Japan   but I know that a girl walking in kimono is more common than seeing a guy in a kimono. I've only seen pictures of weddings and movies where men where kimono, aside from the yukata. It makes me happy to see men advocating wearing kimono.

[Kou Hiko]

On the topic of reviving old style of ornate men's kimono: how about bringing back katami-gawari? Katami-gawari is when pieces of old kimono are put together with another, for example having a red left sleeve, a green left panel, a red right panel, and a green right sleeve, ect. Sometimes it's in a stepped pattern where it looks like it's quilted. I have never seen a person wear one, only pictures on woodblock prints. I think it would look stylish if the right fabrics are choosen. I plan on making my own katami-gawari yukata soon. (I still want to replicate the kimono the geisha wore when Ulysses S. Grant went to Japan in 1879 where they wore red and white striped kimono with dark blue obi and the right sleeve pulled down to reveal a blue kimono with white stars.) I would like to try normal uchikake style dress for non-wedding occasion with kosode uchikake or koshi-maki style with the top kimono dangling at the hips. I have already gone around with a hakoseko (purse inserted in the collar like children do on shichi go san). I raised a few eyebrows but they said it looked original and nice. I have also worn an all black obi several times and I know it's only for mofuku (mourning kimono) but it was my only nice obi at the time (and still is ). No one seemed to mind at all. It may not be a mofuku obi after all for it has the impression that silver threads may have been in it but have faded away... Anyway, I've gotten off topic. This is supposed to be about men .

But I still think it's a good idea to challenge to norm and be creative in dress. What do you think? Maybe someday I'll make and wear a juni hitoe...

[Kiyoaki]

Hiko-san,

I like that you wear kimono so often. I think more than half the pleasure comes from actually wearing a garment. That's how you really get to experience the lives of the people that created and wore them.

The 'half-and-half look' is very eye-catching, but if you do it in just blue-and-white yukata, it might not achieve its' best effect. Try combining a mostly blue pattern, with a mostly white one for maximum effect.

In something dressier, I think it's even more important to select the right fabrics. Not only should they contrast in color and pattern, but also have a unifying element as well. Otherwise, you run the risk of it looking like a patch of left over materials.

There is also an advanced style of this type. Its' made of random, geometric patches arranged in parallel stripes. Only four to six fabrics are used, and the colors are kept in a narrow range (browns, greens, black). The overall effect is subdued, although most of the patches are gold brocade. As long as the style looks intentional, it will be received positively.

Personally, I prefer a style that is classicaly subdued. My best summer look would be white rinzu kimono, red ro juban, and black sha haori. If I added hakama, they would be in plain, crisp, white hemp.The obi would probably be black rinzu with siver motifs.

If I wanted to pose as a Buddhist layman, I would switch the black haori for a black priest's robe or perhaps a red takeyamachi hirosode. The hirosode has motifs of phoenixes and pawlonia flowers woven into a gauze ground. It looks like elaborate lace, but is entirely woven by hand. But then the white hakama would have to go and black ones replace them.

Of course, who knows what I'd do if my means were less limited and I devoted more time to searching out alternatives?

Kiyoaki

[akihito89]

Yeah!  I agree across the board!

I have myself toyed with the idea of mens' kimonos with more elaborate, exotic, or elegant designs and colors.  Brown doesn't turn me on much, but I'd rather wear a dark brown kimono than not wear a kimono.  My current design ideas are boys designs and colors.  

I don't know if I'd use sleeves like on a boys kimono.  Me in a furisode!?  I don't know if I'm that bored.

I do like the black formal outfit though.  If I owned one, that's what I'd wear for Easter hands down!

[Hoshi]

As long as the colors don't clash, I don't mind seeing men wear different colors.

I still think men in default black/blue kimonos look great  

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Hoshi,

Black looks classy, we can all agree, but I'd like to wear more colors and not be limited to only dark, somber colors.  Regardless of the color of the kimono, I always look to the hakama to define the final look.

The pattern can be used to indicate one's sense of formality (or informality for that matter).  After all, they are basically pants.  If men's kimono were only 3/4 length (think of a long dress shirt), then the hakama would truly function like pants.  Even when the upper kimono is plain, the opportunity for more color and pattern is ideal for self expression.  That's what I'd like to see the Japanese do themselves.

If women can co-opt the haori and turn it into a woman's garment, why shouldn't men play by the same rules and adopt more color and pattern into their dress?

Kiyoaki

[Kou Hiko]

I think men should start wearing kimono like the ones in samurai movies. Colored with not-too-flashy designs. Kind of like Musashi's kimono in Samurai or the ones in Seven Samurai (it's black and white, but it still shows design.) This would be a step toward nicer, less plain looking dress for men, and still not be such a big overwhelming change that people can't cope with.

[Kou Hiko]

I have a question on men's obi design.

Most kaku (stiff) obi I see have the same pattern -- stripes going length-wise. The only other designs that I've seen is one single stripe going length-wise down the middle of the obi.

Is it possible to have stripes on the obi going up-and-down instead of side-to-side?  I just bought a thing of fabric because it had stripes that resembled men's obi, but the fabric was to short unless I turned it side-ways.

Could you have up-and-down stripes, or would that be too unfashionable?  (I'm still going to make it, I just want opinions)

[Kiyoaki]

If you call the 'kaku-obi' a 'hanhaba-obi', I think your question resolves itself.  Unless you're making it for a man to wear, I'd say you can do pretty much whatever pleases you. The stripes would automatically look more 'masculine' in Japanese eyes, but if that look suits you, or the occasion, then by all means use it.

Japanese women often wear checks and stripes. It's usually the color scheme that says 'casual', 'formal', or 'conservative'. There aren't any absolute rules, just general norms. Even these can be violated if you understand them thoroughly and have a personal style point you want to make.

I hope this helps some.

Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

For some additional comments on this topic, you may want to read replies under the heading Men's Kimono, especially replies #4 & #5.

Kou-hiko,

In your reply of April 4th you said men should dress as they do in chambara/samurai movies and you singled out Miyamoto Musashi's story and that of Seven Samurai as examples. I've seen two film versions of his story and in both of them Kojiro, his nemesis is pictured as a dandy/fop. As for the other film, the black and white is deceiving. Some of those colors could have been pastels or purples and reds, which photograph as dark in black and white.

This was during the Muromachi Period, which is generally viewed as the first flowering of the kosode. Well, men were on that same kick as women and everyone wore very colorful garments then because the burgeoning commerce made more dyes available. In one of the movie versions, Kojiro even wears brocade hakama as everyday dress. Men wore brighter colors and combinations then. The dull, conservative, formalized look of the Edo Period had not set in yet, and the narrow middle class values of the chonin in the Meiji Era was not even contemplated.

Perhaps it's too late to go all the way back to that time, but people should try to keep some life in their dress. Otherwise, we might as well go around in rags if we are forced to ignore there once were other sides to kimono styles, and today's look doesn't suit everyone or every occasion. Perhaps that's why men so seldom wear kimono. If you were deprived of wearing brighter colors or elaborate decoration, what would be your incentive to wear wafuku at all. This is no longer the 19th century. The times have moved on, and so must the kimono if men and women are to keep such a tradition alive.

Kiyoaki

[akihito89]

Speaking of wearing rags, we do wear rags as i see it. I agree that mens kimonos need to be spiced up some (but I don't want to see the conservative formal edo period stuff bite the dust weither). Maybe that's why some mens' wedding kimonos are being made white. It's different and cool.

[chiiyo]

Since this about men's kimono I shall post a question here. I have a friend who is half japanese: his father is a singaporean chinese, whilst his mother is japanese. He is the second son in the family, and has only one sibling, his older brother. When I asked him about kimono, he told me that because he is the second son, he is not allowed to wear very bright kimono. He says his kimono is just pure white with a character painted by his mother at the top back. Is that common practise, or is it something that evolved from some amalgamation of cultures?

[Kiyoaki]

Lili,

That's the way it works for both Chinese and Japanese. The oldest son gets all the perks (and responsibilities for caring for his aging parents and the rest of the family).

The hand-written character where the 'mon' usually goes is her own invention. Perhaps it was their family name? He might also have used his mother's mon if they wanted to maintain the tradition.

Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

It's been some time since anyone last posted here, so I wanted to revive interest in this topic (for the benefit of the newer visitors here), by moving it to the head of the category.

What do you think?

Kiyoaki

[bawsin]

You gentlemen who were lamenting the scarcity of colourful kimono for men ... take a gander at this! It's a new offering of Ichiroya's on eBay - a men's dancing kimono in robin's-egg blue:

cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=29452&item=3970681138

Yowza!

[qwyattmike]

I just found and signed up on this site. I was in Japan in the late 60's for three and a half years teaching English. While I was there I dressed "Native" frequently and wnet to public functions. I 6'3" tall and my kimono and yukata were specially made for me. I loved wearing the yukata especially. It was hand sewn by a friend's mother of fine cotton with a common yukata navy blue mpri9nt on white. The lapel (I'll have to bone up on the Japanese) was made of several layers and stood up nicely even after hundreds of washings. I'm told this was done mainly by tradition so that worn layers could be removed to expose new material after it became threadbare. After I returned to the 'States, I continued to wear it at home almost daily. It lasted nearly 40 years. Finally it became so weak that the material tore rather than ripping at seams(Which it never did). Since then I have bought some cheap and some rather expensive ones but I've never found one I revered like that one. My old friend is still around even though I can no longer wear it. Maybe I'll be cremated in it.
So happy to meet you all! O Hajime mashite!