Reassembling Uchikake

[yamadera]

I have the outer fabric only for a Taisho yuzen uchikake, which I would like to resew. I've sewn many kimono, hitoe and awase, so the hand stitching isn't a problem, and will refer to other uchikake in my collection for details.

But what should I use for the red lining? Would modern red lining silk look or feel right? I could dye some habutae red... Old uchikake linings continue right into the hem, so old red linings already in my collection (salvaged from when I've bought sleeves or sleeveless kimono bodies*) would be too thin and not long enough. Any suggestions? I don't have another Taisho uchikake on hand to compare lining fabric with!

* If you were/are active in the debate about cutting up or preserving/wearing old kimono, I think I am in the mid-ground - preserve/conserve if possible, rescue where appropriate (as with the uchikake) and recycle into something else (with minimal cutting up of fabric) everywhere else. I even hoard bits of old mawata from sodegake in case they come in useful!

Thanks for any helpful ideas!

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Yamadera,

Perhaps it might be best to find some red tanmono made especially for lining. Ichiroya carries various colors occassionally, but unless you stick to chirimen, or a plain weave, any kind of decoration (rinzu) will likely be too modern looking.

Plain Western yard goods are possible, but would also require some adaptation. For instance, I have a kimono made from such yardage. Instead of piecing two strips together to form the back width, a permanent vertical fold was sewn in the 27" fabric to create that illusion. This was also done on each of the overlapping front panels as well, and sometimes excess fabric had to be folded double to deal with it. All in all, it should be possible.

Good luck,
Kiyoaki