Uchikake desgin

[HikaruNoGo]

I have received my latest uchikake from wonderful Ichiroya today and was pondering as I admired my newest baby.

1) I know that the design is embroidered, but are uchikake generally hand or machine emboidered? I have a modern style (1990's).

2) Is each uchikake unique? Or do they make similar copies of each pattern? I haven't seen mutliple copies of uchikake, come to think of it.

[Kiyoaki]

H-no-G,

I may be taking my life into my hands by replying on a 'woman's' item of clothing, but I'm too reckless to care. That being said, all types are possible. The styles of decoration has always reflected fashion trends.

The uchikake came into existence in the Momoyama Period, along with the kosode. It served as a dressy alternative to the lone kimono.

It might have been inspired by the formal 'apron' worn by female courtiers (mo) when formally dressed in the full juni-hitoe. Although it was originally worn in front, by the time of the Heian Period, it had been reversed and trailed instead.

The bushi/samurai class that came to power in the Kamakura Period, competed with the Court for power, and also fostered its' own slant on that same court culture. Clothing, based upon court styles (but altered by bushi sensibilities) resulted in the uchikake for women.

In the late Meiji Era, double-width (maru) obi material was often seen. In the Taisho Era, perhaps yuzen and embroidery became more popular. Within the Showa Era several styles have prevailed at different times.

In the exuberant 60's (at least for the Japanese economy) uchikake with large scale motifs in gold and silver thread against a solid ground replaced the Taisho Era taste. They were most often executed either as woven designs or by free-form embroidery.

By the 80's the new forms were introduced. The classic cut continued, but a new type __ inspired by the juni-hitoe of the Heian Period __ was added. It had multiple 'edges' or lapels of contrasting fabric and often decorative cords were knotted at the sleeve openings or the lapels. This type emulated traditional Court taste, so only rinzu and kinran were used.

By the 90's, the name-designer style had developed. Often traditional designs, in semi-abstract or naturalistic styles were executed exclusively through the weaving process. When one considers that six or more colors might be employed, and color blocks would be done in textured weaves as well, the technical tour de force required to achieve such a feat is almost mind-boggling. On top of that, the placement of the motifs was planned so precisely when it was woven, that every figure that crossed a seam, could continue without interruption.

Currently, few innovations have developed in the wake of the multi-year recession Japan has been experiencing. On the whole, traditional types of decoration have largely been supplanted by woven designs. Sometimes special techniques like gilding or embroidery are used to enchance a design, but they no longer serve as the principal technique, though.

Kiyoaki

[HikaruNoGo]

Thanks for the imput!

Also, for the weaving process, how much of it is automatic? I'm assuming the nowadays, computers are in charge of weaving. But I'm also thinking that there has to be parts of the process still done by hand.

I very much would like to visit such a 'factory' where I can see uchikake and other kimono being made. Do you know any such places?

[Kiyoaki]

Most of the elaborate uchikake seem to have been done at Nishijin. The weaving and complex designs are generally beyond everthing else.

Kiyoaki

P.S. I might be able to get you more information in the future.