Need Help with Happi Coat Research

[Kathy]

I recently acquired what I believe is a happi coat or fireman's jacket. I would like to learn more about it and am hoping that someone here can help. I would particularly like to know it's approximate age, value, and what the symbols on it mean. I believe it is made of a heavy cotton weave and is unlined. The sleeve to sleeve measurement across the shoulders is 60", the length is 36", and the width across the back is 26 1/2". It weighs 2 1/2 pounds. I am going to try to include some pictures below, not sure if I quite understand how to add them, but I will try. Any help or insight that anyone can offer is greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much,
Kathy

[Ume]

maybe this magazine would be of help:

www.darumamagazine.com

Back issue 19 is on Fire-fighters' Jackets

www.darumamagazine.com/Issues/daruma19.htm

[Kiyoaki]

Kathy,

Your picture did not come through. I think the only way to 'post' a picture in this forum is to spell out the url listing where the photo is already posted [i.e. an existing web site].

Having read the article posted in Daruma on firefighter's dress (which Ume was kind enough to list), I wanted to clarify and expand on some of the topics covered. In addition, there is a great deal of lore associated with the Edo Period firefighters that deserves to be mentioned.

Sashiko is the Japanese form of quilting. Multiple layers are held together by running stitches in geometric patterns. In the case of firemen's clothing, the stitches completely cover the undelying cloth layers. The designs are usually dyed before the quilting process. Because of the multiple layers in the quilting, some hanten have a second design on the interior. Helmets and gauntlets (also in sashiko) would complete an outfit.

Once dressed, the firefighter would be doused with water to fend off the heat of the flames. The water made the clothing very heavy and the work awkward, so strong and brave men had to be chosen. After a successful job, the returning company turned their hanten inside out to give the inner layers a chance to dry. The interior design was then displayed with an air of bravado for braving the dangerous fires and also completing their task successfully.

The principal tool they used was a sickle-like implement, which was used to pull down buildings to create fire breaks. Without modern pumping equipment and copious supplies of water, their methods for fighting fires were very limited.

In the Edo Period (and continuing into modern times), voulnteer fire brigades were organized through out the city. Even the samurai were obliged to join the chonin in this activity to protect their own residences. Often the samurai wore a special coat cut like a haori, but with a split tail for a sword.

But, rather than sashiko, smoked deer skin and wool might be substitued for quilted cotton. Designs could be either stenciled on the leather's surface in colored pigment or by curing the surface with smoke in such a way as to create light and dark patterns, or embroidered, appliqued, or combinations of the above.

In the older examples of hanten, designs are sometimes stencil printed or painted on the interior surface after the quilting process. Often the decorative themes relate to water. Dragons are often employed because they are associated with water (especially rain). The design also served as a talisman to protect the wearer.

Each fire company had its' own design as a means of ready identification to maintain cohesion and among its' members. The company's name and individual ranks could also be worked into the design for each coat. Because the fire chief had to identify and direct his men, uniform designs in the decoration were adopted to aid him. Since several companies could be working at the same fire, differences in the markings on clothing also helped to idenify each company.

Most companies had a standard bearer, who's job it was to stand on the ridge of a burning building and wave the company' standard about. Aside from acting as a rallying point for his compatriots, these bearers also competed for dangerous assignments to bolster the company's reputation for fearlessness among the local public. Until the fire was put out, he was at the mercy of the flames.

Kiyoaki

[Kathy2]

Hello, I am the original "Kathy" poster and I apologize for my delay in returning to this thread. I had some "maintenance" done on my computer and, as a result, I lost several of my passwords and could not return to this forum without (finally after much frustration) registering again with the new username of Kathy2. Very sorry.

Thank you so much to Ume for the link to the magazine. It was very interesting reading.

Also, many thanks to Kiyoaki for taking the time to add such fascinating details to the history of this very intriguing piece of clothing.

I feel like I have a giant puzzle and that the pieces are slowly falling into place. It's been a wonderful journey so far, thanks especially to this fine forum.

I'm sorry my pictures did not appear with my post. Here is the URL of where you can see them:

hometown.aol.com/kathyk1296/index.html

You can copy and paste that into your browser to get to my photo page. I would still very much like to know what the symbols on the front and back mean on this jacket.

Also, from what I've read, it sounds like most of these are fairly old? However, this one appears to be new and unworn. Are there copies of the older ones still being made? Is there a way to tell its age?

Thank you so much for all of your kind help.
Kathy

[Kiyoaki]

Kathy,

Judging from your photo, I'd say yours is fairly recent [i.e. post-war]. When firefighting in Japan was modernized, the tradition of wearing such coats for ceremonial or semi-official use began to die out.

Traditionally, because each person supplied his own equipment, having an individual sashiko coat custom made became a neccessity. Once municipalities and cities took over the responsibility for such duty and Western dress started to take hold, the tradition began to die. Nowadays, they can still be found, but in a generic form and probably made for sale to tourists.

I can't respond directly to your question about the markings on the coat, other than to say that they should give the name of the fire company and occassionally the wearer's name and/or rank. Some companies adopted the military custom of sewing on rank badges as promotions were given. Deciphering the emblem on the back and the writing on the lapels should answer the question whether yours in genuine or not.

Kiyoaki

[sg715]

I don't know anything about happi coats, but it looks like a lovely one you have got yourself there