Yogi-old style padded sleeping kimono

[bebemochi]

Hello,
I would really like to have a padded sleeping kimono (yogi) but havent been able to find one anywhere. I'd like to try and make one but am not really sure about the measurements.
I wonder if anyone can tell me how to find patterns etc. (in English) for kimono, hagi tojin and other country style clothing. Any information around the subject of kimono making and especially folk clothing would be very much appreciated.
    Thankyou.
Best wishes katie yoshida

[Daikan]

Dear bebemochi san

I can sugest the follwing book:

Make Your Own Japanese Clothes : Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear,
by John Marshall, Steven Jenner (Photographer)

It has traditional kimono patterns and ideas for modern wear. However, it doen' t contain a pattern for yogi.






 <br>

[bebemochi]

Wow! Brilliant i'll get that book, it looks interesting. Thankyou very much that's very helpful. I'm surprised that it's the only book on how to make Japanese clothing available in English though. I saw a photo of a vintage yogi in another book I'll try and estimate the size. Are they alot bigger than ordinary kimono?     Katie Yoshida

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Bebemochi,

Regarding your question on 'yogi', I have some observations, which might prove useful to you.

1] Regarding the shape, typically the sleeves are square and proportioned between a third to one-half the length of the body. This might require two widths of material if you are using the standard 'tan' bolts of cloth or one 27"-width of standard yard goods.

2] The sleeves should be attached to the garment/quilt along its' full length. There is no need to separate the lower part of the sleeve as it is done with the kosode for men and women. The 'cuff' can be left open or closed according to your desire. [Open would be less trouble to stuff.]

3] Besides being oversized, the yogi can be cut differently from a normal kosode. There is less of a need for a full lapel because it isn't closed about the body. Normally the yogi is laid over someone with the lapels folded back so they will spread flat on the 'shiki-buton' (face up). The slant of the lapels therefore, can be made very steep since the yogi in't closed over the chest.

These comments are based upon one example I purchased in the past year and others I have seen. Several have been offered on E-Bay, but they can easily run to several thousand dollars for pre-Meiji examples. Recently I saw one in silk with freehand resist dying, which exceeded $2000.00 (and it was still a bargain at that price). The batting and lining had been removed.

The one I have, was done in indigo e-gasuri cotton and probably dates to Taisho or even Showa eras. It is quite short. It could be draped on someone 5'-6" and not trail on the floor.

I might suggest you study old examples to get the proportion correct. As far as sizes go, that is entirely up to you. I don't think there is such a thing as a 'standard' length. However, the sleeves should be long enough so that the arms will not protrude unless the yogi is intended to be worn with the front left open and draped like a 'uchikake'. The length of body should cover the feet as well.

I hope these observations will help you out. Let us know how your efforts to create one turn out.

Kiyoaki

[[e-mail]]

:)Dear Kyoakisan

to be honest I could not find time to read this message board for a long time. Ichiro told me about you and he was so excited that you have written so much information and advice. I knew you know so much about kimono for you have taught us about the pattern we did not know.

I was especially impressed to read about men's kimono. about Your rehearsals before wearing kimono, about the fashion of your boss(I covered my mouth and  smiled!)
I have been in Osaka all after noon searching for big size men's kimono. We were having problems finding big size (about 185cm tall)used kimono, (we only had some wedding formal which were quite new). I asked to the sellers who deal new kimono, but could find only 178cm size. I'm sure they will be somewhere. I wanted to ask sumo wrestlers but was told that  they always give their kimono away to the younger trainees and they use them until they are all so worn out.

To offer nice old kimono of old size is most preferable, but since it is not so hopeful, we need to see the new items. I agree polyester and cotton kimono will be the eaiest to wear. They seem to sell kimono or yukata(for both men and women) in a set of juban,  obi and kimono. It seems open the bag and wear the kimono for yourself in 5 min, is everyone's wish.
I saw men's kimono in a set today. If more men will be able to wear kimono using these kimono set,  it may be a nice thing.
Sorry I'm not writing about Yogi but men's kimono. I found  a site by a man who suggests men to wear kimono in Japan.
I will find the site again and let you know.
Thank you very much again, oyasuminasai

Yuka Wada

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Yuka-san,

I can easily understand your diffulculty in finding men's kimono for Westerners. Older examples will tend to be smaller, while the larger sizes are likely to be quite recent.

May I suggest that you look primarily for men's 'juban' to start. Typically, the decoration is more interesting than the outer kimono and therefore should have wider appeal. Also the length is less critical because it probably won't be worn outside the home, and should prove more comfortable for Westerners too. If it is worn under another layer, the outer kimono or hakama will disguise the shortness of the juban and make it easier to walk.

Whenever I look for men's juban, I only worry about the width from 'cuff-to-cuff' (as measured along the shoulders). The length doesn't concern me because I'll probably wear hakama anyway.

If I wear a matching full kimono with haori and hakama (especially the 'umanori' type), I must shorten the kimono anyway, in order to walk comfortably. I do that, by placing the 'eri' atop my head, closing the kimono, then fastening it with a cord at the waist. Next, with the collar resting on my shoulders, I fold the excess over the cord (as a woman does) before putting the obi over everything. Lastly, I proceed to tie on the hakama.

If a man has a flat abdomen, the excess material of the fold, will help to create thickness under the obi, which will help to keep the hakama ties in their places. In the past, I needed to place a small towel there, to get the eri to lie flat along the chest and stomach, and because the knot at the front (where the hakama ties meet), would not stay in place but slip higher.

Although a full length juban may seem proper, there are practical reasons for shorter lengths. As Liza Dalby says in her book, many of the practical styles of kimono were "killed" (my word) by the desire for social propriety. If the kimono stands a chance of revival, some of the past "improper" ways of dressing may need to be tried again.

Kiyoaki

[Daikan]

Kiyoaki san  "domo arigato" for your message. It was very interesting to read everything you wrote. The way you adjust the kimono by folding at the waist sounds good helpful. Just as you said, men's kimono are very plain and have subdued colors. Sometimes they look non-descript, but a juban and the lining of the haori have unique motifs and are very charming. There is a small museum of men's 'haura' (haori lining), which has opened. They display the haori lining just like a picture. We'd love to go and see them.

We have a wonderful set for men's kimono, called mihosugata'. The set incl;udes a silk kakuobi, half juban(wool), a special pad to thicken the waist, a rubber datejime with clips, and finally a kenjojime (which also is made of rubber but looks just like regular obi). It should be very easy for a man to dress himself and for the obi to remain in place.

I think juban is beautiful enough to wear at home and it doesn't always need to be hidden under the kimono!  Relaxing in a juban (at home) sounds very comfortable.

Can I ask you one question, if you wear juban at home what kind of obi do you use? To me Kakuobi seems a little too stiff. I have no experience, so I do not know.

Itsumo domo arigatou gozaimasu. We had a little snow today but it fled after only a few minutes. You still have some hours left on Sunday, but ours is almost over.

Have a nice time.

With many thanks,
Yuka  <br>

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Yuka & Ichiro-san,

Please see my reply under the "Men's Kimono" page.

I want to keep all my replies under the headings where they belong so that anyone who reads them will not have to skip around to find all the additional responses on that same topic.

Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

Bebemochi,

There was a company called "Folkwear" that was bought by Lark Books and Fiber Arts magazine. They made clothes patterns and had one for kimono [#113] and another for farm wear [#305], which in combination, are supposed to offer hints(?) on how to adapt a kimono pattern to that of a yogi.

I can't vouch for the completeness of the pattern instruction, but it may be worth a try. Their patterns run around $20.00 each. Seach for "Folkwear" to locate retailers for them.

Kiyoaki

[bebemochi]

Dear Kyoaki,
The hints on yogi proportions were very interesting, i am also trying to locate the patterns you suggested. thankyou very much. Im really looking forward to getting started on a yogi but realise i'll need to do some proper research if it is to be authentic. I'll try and find some pictures to get a better idea of what they actually look like. By the way do you know how long yogi have been in use for?
Bebemochi
P.S Have you ever come across shima-cho at auctions?    

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Bebemochi,

Can you describe the item?

I'm not familiar with the term, as such. The words of course can mean various things depending on the kanji.

Kiyoaki

[bebemochi]

sorry, shima-cho as in a scrapbook of striped material swatches. Actually I'll ask about it more specifically in a different post.
Bebemochi

[joval]

Hi
re: Yogi

I was looking at the Folkwear website and found they have a
pattern for Japanese Interiors that includes instructions for Yogi with nice picture.

www.folkwear.com/

look in collections and then; Asian; Japanese Interiors.

They have Nori, floor cushion, futon cover, etc.

Is this of help?

Joval

[Kiyoaki]

Zaphod,

I saw both of these items when they were first listed more than a week ago.

The second item you listed in your posting may not be a yogi in the truest sense. Often Japanese make a quilted kimono for cold weather wear. These are actually worn in the conventional manner[i.e. with an obi or as a male version of an uchikake]. The principle difference lies in the amount of padding and the type of material used. You'll notice that your bid item has the conventional separation on the inner corner of the sleeve, whereas the one offered by 'chidori.com' does not.

If you want something to wear, the one you bid on is still worthwhile. If you're looking for the folkwear style than the first is a truer example of the sleeping quilt, but it really is best kept as a collector's item and not subjected to actual use and soiling.

I hope you're not disappointed by my comments.