Hakama patterns

[Kiyoaki]

I am trying to locate a clothing pattern for making hakama. A company called "Folkwear" used to produce one here in the U.S. (it was #151), but it no longer seems to be offered. I'm not even certain the company still operates.

If you are familiar with this pattern line, please locate one for me. I'll reimburse someone for all reasonable efforts and expenses. This should have the "umanori" style of hakama, but others will be welcome as well.

Kiyoaki

[chiiyo]

I'm not very sure what you are talking about... but I'll try and help anyway.

www.round-earth.com/patterns.html
These are patterns. Not sure what type of hakama. But patterns anyway.

www.bujindesign.com/hakama.html
They custom-make your hakama. Maybe you could suggest a certain way for it to look? But seems very expensive.

www.healthkicks.com/Century/032.htm
??

www.amas.net/item.cfm?RecordId=032


Basically I also need a white hakama for a nearing cosplay. Either I go to an aikido shop or I would approach a tailor. Or borrow from my friend. Or even better, buy hers!

Hope this helps.

[Kiyoaki]

Thanks, Yuriko-chan __

I've checked their web site and found that that pattern is out of print. I saw one on E-Bay, which sold for more than $50.00! I have several types already, but it would be nice to have a paper pattern to study as well.

Kiyoaki

[joval]

Hi again Kyoaki

Are you still looking for a paper pattern? I have been trolling around myself lately and have found a site that advertises Folkwear designs.
www.patternsoftime.com/catalg.html
They have several japanese styles, maybe the one you seek is there.

For other people who like to sew their own, I have found a site that stocks a range of many patterns. Some are true to custom and others are adaptations.
www.pattershowcase.com    then do a search.
happy hunting
Joval

[Kiyoaki]

Joval,

I've already checked those sites.

The pattern I wanted is no longer in print. There was one for sale on E-Bay that sold for $50.00, which is why I wanted to located a copy from another source.

Thanks for the thought.

Kiyoaki

[joval]

Hi Kyoaki

Re pattern for hakama:

From Aikido web site I have:

www.roundearth.com/patterns.html
www.sewingcentral.com

both of which have e-mail addresses for queries.
Good Luck
Joval

[Kiyoaki]

Zaphod,

Thanks for the suggestion.

However, I was exclusively interested in the paper pattern for study. I have several examples of the divided type, which are from the Showa era. But they all have different ways of creating the saddle or crotch between the two 'pant' legs. Eventually I may be forced to experiment on my own or take one apart to study how the separate legs are smoothly joined.

I'm familiar with the seller you mentioned. However, I can't compete with the collectors of militaria. The prices for kamishimo and jimbaori are significantly higher there than elsewhere. I recall he had a reproduction jimbaori for sale a month back that also went for a significant price. I can easily imagine the real thing going for more than a $1,000.00 but a reproduction? I'd prefer to buy from kimono sellers rather than from armor dealers. Whenever the mystique of the samurai is evoked, the peak interest and prices kick into high gear.

Having said all that, earlier this year I bought a pair of true 'umanori' hakama from a textile dealer in the San Francisco area. She had bought this item some 20 years ago in Japan and had never found a duplicate. It had several distinctive traits to recommend it beyond the unique cut and fit of the pants.

Although made of cotton, it had been double resist printed [i.e. both the front and back had been reserved] to prevent the dye from bleeding across the margins of the a peony scroll motif. This elaborate process reqires that a resist be applied to one side of the fabric by stencil. The fabric is then turned over and another layer of resist is applied to the back. On this second application the stencil is also reversed, and must be positioned to create a mirror image of the first, but with perfect registration. This process prevents the dye from bleeding into the resist and blurring the edges. This elaborate method produces crisper designs when using the katazome technique.

In addition, the green background color is achieved by using two different dyes. First the indigo is applied several times. This process requires multiple applications, because the dye must oxidize between baths before the color fully develops. Then this process is repeated with a second color (usually tumeric or saffron based) which ordinarily would yield a yellow tint. The green results from the combination of both colors. But to cap everything off, there was a third dye that was used to color the orange blossoms in the design. The color was created again by combining the dye effects of red madder with the same yellow used for the green. All this work to color one bolt of material?

Although it may seem I've diverged from my original premise, in fact, exploring the technical end of fabric production offers another rewarding insight into the world of the kimono. I'd better avoid describing these hakama any further, or I'll never finish this posting.

Kiyoaki

[Lisa]

i only found those sites that people had already sent you. do you know how many yards of fabric you need for hakama?

[Kiyoaki]

Hi Lisa,

I haven't been able to find a pattern yet for hakama, but I have experimented with making them so my recommendations are base on those trials. There are two different types, and depending on which you choose the amount of fabric you need will vary somewhat.

For the 'andon' type, which is really a simple pleated skirt, two lengths of 36" or 45" fabric multiplied by the wearer's height (as measured from the navel down to the ankle) should be enough for the body of the garment. The wider fabric will accomodate someone with a big waist (perhaps 36 inches or more), otherwise the lesser width will work for 90% of the people.

The ties can be made from a medium weight belt material such as cotton straping (perhas 1-2 inches wide). Just make certain it is pliable enough to knot and unknot easily. You can select either a contrasting or complimentary color. White was traditional during certain periods.

If you prefer to make the ties from matching fabric, it should be doubled over and seamed along its' entire length. I wouldn't recommend piecing strips together to obtain the necessary lengths because of the different biases and the inherent weaknes of a seam.
Each back tie should be either 36 or 45 inches in length, but the front ones need to be twice as long.

The 'umanori' type, which has an extra panel between the legs will require a bit more material. Perhaps one or two more feet of fabric will be enough.

If you are making the hakama for a woman (especially for formal or festive wear), the length should be measured from just below the ribcage down to the ankles. Also, in this case, there is no trapezoidal board such as men have on their hakama. Instead, the ties are sewn directly over the pleated margin on top as if it were bias tape.

I hope I've answered all your questions, but let me know if you have any more questions.

[namiyama]

Hello,

what about a original japanese "pattern". As you may know, there are no real "patterns" but "construction designs" in traditional Japanese clothing. I have one from a rather old Japanese book. Of course it is in Japanese but due to the drawing and the figures in there, anybody who has been a little bit into sewing or even Japanese fuku should be able to read it. If you are interested please let me know

Good luck and have fun

[Kiyoaki]

Namiyama,

Your book sounds promising. I've tired to work from ready-made originals and was able to make something that resembled the andon type. However, the crotch for the umanori style was somewhat baffling. Perhaps I could have figured it out (or come up with my own solution). Nevertheless, I wanted the security of relying on a tried-and-true method of construction.

Were you thinking of selling the book, or perhaps photocopy som of the pages?

Kiyoaki

[namiyama]

Well, if I had the book in my hands I woul dcertainly not sell it. Unfortunately I only saw it in Japan in a library. It is full of interesting info on fuku and I am thinking of checking it again later this year when I am in Japan. Maybe it is so interesting that I will try to order it (it is pretty old as far as I remember and I do not know if it is still available). I do have the "hakama pages" though as copies.