Uchikake length

[AndyZ]

Kimono are difficult to date sometimes, as such beautiful fabric is still being made. The style can help, but even then modern kimono can be styled just like much earlier ones. One of the main ways is to judge by the size, people being smaller in bygone days.

What I wondered, was if anyone knows roughly when certain lengths of uchikake became the norm. When did 68 inches become 70 inches, then 72, 76 etc.? Did they change with the decades, or was it a much more subtle, un-noticed difference...?

[Kiyoaki]

Andy,

This may not be the response you expected, but as far as judging the age of an uchikake, a second characteristic to consider is the thickness of the hem. Generally, the heavier (thicker) padded the hem, the more recent the uchikake tends to be. These heavily padded hems are found on Showa and Heisei examples. In fact, the wedding uchikake (as such)doesn't appear before the Taisho Era.

The Edo Period ones (judging from decorative styles), had no special padding in the hem (though perhaps the entire body might be lightly padded for warmth). As a formal garment of the Shogun's court, it was usually made from small-figured brocade. There were stylistic changes over time, but even in the Tasiho Era, this model continued to be the rule. as such, that model was largely defined by the fabric used.

However, the uchikake's usage waned in the early years of the Meiji Era, as European fashions began to take hold among upper class women. The late Meiji and early Taisho examples tend to be made from obi-type materials and have bright red linings. They also seemed to favored earth tones and muted primaries.

But, as so often happens in the history of the kimono, as the elite abandoned their tradition, the middle class (chonin) took it and made it thier own. At the same time, they put their own 'spin' of it by bringing the facility inherent in yuzen-zome into play. In this way they adapted the uchikake to suit their sensibilities.

The uchikake revival began when it was adopted as part of the wedding ceremonial in the late Taisho Era. As always, the brocade dominated the style (especially when made from bolts of obi material). From mid-Showa onward, it has developed into a visual symphony of endless detail. Modern taste seems to prefer one of crowed composition done by a name designer.

Kiyoaki

[AndyZ]

Thanks Kiyoaki,

Any contribution that helps towards the appreciation and understanding of the developement of uchikake design is welcome. I am still always wondering about the thin threads knotted into a slight tassel at each front corner of the padded hem. They hardly seem to be worth the effort, but still somehow to achieve an attractive effect (One I bought some years ago was missing these and I was disappointed!)

Because they don't seem to be anything in particular, I wondered if they could just be the last vestiges of a time when threads were used inside (pulley like?)to raise and lower hems for walking... I'm probably wrong.

I just like them anyway...

How I would love to see a wedding photo of a bride who wore an uchikake that I own!

[Kiyoaki]

Andy,

The threads at the ends of the padded hems are purely decorative. I've also seen them used on padded ties, which can substitute for a man's obi. In the same way that the obijime has tasseled ends, the whisp of threads for padded rolls (i.e. the uchikake hem) is their counterpart. In any event, their are just a flourish and therefore purely optional.

Kiyoaki