Dye-Sample Juban

[Kiki]

Hi! It's been almost forever since I last posted. but here goes:

I've been very intrigued by some new jubans that I have seen on Ichiroya's site and another kimono seller's website. They are juban that are made out of kimono dye samples.
<a href="www.ichiroya.com/item/list2.php?number=57824> Dye Sample Juban#1 </a>
<a href="www.chuu.com/shop/item/00003065"> Dye Sample Juban #2 </a>

I really like the different patterns, and the different colors. These juban are so intriguing to me, as compared to the normally light colored or red ones. Has anyone else seen juban like this, or are they rather rare?

[Kiyoaki]

Kiki,

Juban made from dye sample bolts are somewhat uncommon. The material could never be used for an outer kimono, so they can only serve for under kimono or lining for haori, which I've seen done.

The number of bolts available is limited to perhaps one percentage of a dye studios yearly production, so the demand for them tends to be greater than regular goods. That being said, they don't appeal to everyone so the final level of demand tends to equal the supply. In essence, they are slightly more expensive then average.

Kiyoaki

[Kiki]

Thanks!

I think its so cool that they took something that had primarily one purpose, like choosing fabric for a kimono, and make it into an under-kimono, so it can be used in another fashion and admired for its own beauty.

[Kiyoaki]

Kiki,

Certainly some Japanese recognized the beauty of a finished garment decorated with a series of contrasting blocks. More importantly, a sense of frugality, which wouldn't tolerate such waste suggested the idea. Then too, by the Heian Period, the style called 'dan-gawari' was well established.

[See the 'Glossary' heading under 'F.A.Q'.]

Katami-gawari (half-and-half), consisted of contrasting blocks of fabric used in a single garment. Typically, the right sleeve might match the left side of the kimono and vice versa. From that simple start, the style evolved into blocks of contrasting color intentionally woven into the fabric. The inspiration for the style might have come about as a frugal way to extend the life of a garment by replacing damaged parts (most often the sleeves).

Eventually the idea was established to such a point that fabric began to be woven with contrasting blocks of color ___ each with its' own decoration. Some traditional Noh robes are patterned in this very way (dan-gawari).

The style isn't favored much anymore.

Kiyoaki