Gender-specific kimono motifs?

[bawsin]

I've been wondering if anyone has compiled a list of gender-specific kimono/wafuku motifs -- namely, design subjects that are used exclusively in men's clothes vs. women's clothes.

Reason I'm wondering is that I happen to like daruma designs. I've been looking for a while now, but I've only spotted the daruma motif on men's nagajuban and on the lining of men's haori. For whatever reason, I've never seen it on women's kimono or haori... which is what set me to wondering what makes a design element suitable (in Japanese tradition) for women, for men, and for both.

Similarly, I've seen the sekitei (Zen rock garden) motif on men's juban a couple of times, but never on any women's clothing.

Some motifs are perhaps predictable - the "manly" hawk you occasionally see on male attire, perhaps in contradistinction to the dainty sparrow or pigeon that sometimes appears on women's garments. But I'm intrigued by the ones that aren't as obvious to me as a Westerner. What rules underlie these customs?

Thoughts, anyone?

- Bawsin

[fraise]

In general, flowers are considered feminine - but there are exceptions and flowers that can be both "masculine" and "feminine", like the chrysanthemum and iris, for example. The iris symbolizes strength and is one of the emblems for Children's Day, for young boys. Previously the festival was actually only for boys; you can find more info about that here:
pa.essortment.com/kodomonohijap_rnsd.htm
It mentions that: "One of the alternative names, the Iris Festival, was taken from the 12th century belief that the long, sharp leaves of the iris are swordlike, so placing iris leaves in a boy's bath is supposed to make him more martial. This meant that he would grow and develop with courage and strength. This is only one of the many symbols surrounding this day, most of which have to do with strength and health and success."

The cherry blossom is another, since it was adopted by samurai as emblematic of their lives: a cherry blossom falls before withering, much like a samurai must often fall (in battle) at his prime. Butterflies were also favored as family crests by warriors since they demonstrated that their inner nature was different from their outer, professional demeanor. And yet you mainly see cherry blossoms and butterflies in profusion on women's kimono!

There's a grouping of plants called The Four Gentlemen that symbolize the four seasons and virtues of the ideal gentleman, it's the same in China and Japan. When I visited China, many calligrapher-painters had sets of the Four Gentlemen: plum (spring), orchid (summer), chrysanthemum (autumn) and bamboo (winter). But all four can be used on women's kimono Probably not as this grouping, however!

One woman-only motif I'm (pretty) sure of is wisteria - as it's a climbing plant, it was said that it "needs to cling to a strong and upright (male) support in order to flower," like women. Feel free to disagree, of course, as a woman myself it brings a wry smile to my face, but that is the root symbolism. Peony are also a symbol of femininity, but the flower was also the crest of two of Japan's most aristocratic families and is considered "the king of flowers".

As regards Daruma, I can't find any specific information regarding which gender would more likely use him as a motif, but my guess would be that as he's a Zen figure, he would be more "male" than "female"? Men were more likely to pursue - or display their desire to pursue - such intellectual activities.

I have seen some irotomesode with temples surrounded by forest as a motif. I believe they were meant for older, more mature women, since the kimono were in subdued colors like greyish-purple, greyish-green and beige. I also remember reading that older women should use more "stately" flowers such as plum, and "mature" motifs such as pine trees, bamboo, and mountains on their kimono, rather than going with profusions of blossoms. It makes sense considering that plum, pine and bamboo all symbolize longevity, among other things.

Hm, my post ended up not bringing any definitive answers, didn't it...

[Kiyoaki]

Beyond what 'fraise' has said, there is also the personal element. Since most women's kimono are custom made, the client's choice usually decides what motifs are used. Obviously there are traditions that the great majority would follow, but ultimately the issue of what's appropriate is decided by the wearer. What's appropriate is also influenced by the time of year or occassion when she would wear it.

I've seen uchikake decorated with figures of hawks perched in snow covered pines. The hawk typically represents martial valor, but presumably the father of the girl wanted to imbue her with courage (another trait of the hawk) and persistence in adversity (the snow) by having her wear that design. That's one example of the way personal choices can create un-traditional designs.

I could cite other examples, but I don't want to turn this into something of a term paper.

Kiyoaki

[bawsin]

Dear fraise and Kiyoaki,

Thank you for your kind replies (and apologies for my tardy one!).

fraise, your posting was wonderful and detailed, and I loved reading it. It doesn't matter if your posting wasn't "definitive"; half the fun is trying to figure it all out, isn't it? (And I'm not sure that definitiveness on this topic exists, in any case!)

And Kiyoaki, your comments about individual choice (with the example of the "non-traditional" uchikake with the hawk and snow) are most interesting! I'd never heard of a girl's/woman's kimono using such motifs, so there you go - how exciting to learn that there is such personal flexibility in these matters.

You also said, "I could cite other examples, but I don't want to turn this into something of a term paper." Please - I'd love to learn about more examples! (And a term paper would be fantastic )

Julia