Bibliography and References

[Kiyoaki]

This is a general suggestion to everyone that we start compiling a bibliography on works that exclusively or largely relate to 'kimono' [i.e. 'kosode'] and the history of Japanese dress. To kick things off, I'll give you all a rundown on my current favorites. These are not organized in any special way and if this list continues to grow, it will probably not follow a set order anyway. Here are my 'best picks'.

1] Japanese Costume, by Helen Benton Minnich. Originally published by Tuttle, it may still be available under the Kodansha or Weatherhill imprimatur. This was my introduction to the kimono back in 1969. Everything that I've done that's related to collecting Japanese textiles and garments stems directly from this first book.

2]Japanese Costume and Textile Arts, by Seiroku Noma is part of the Heibonsha series on Japanese arts. It has seen a number of printings, so several editions are readily available on the 'used' book market. It deals mostly with Noh costume tradition and Momoyama/Genroku kosode.

3]Kimono, by Liza Dalby is the most recent (and arguably the best). She is a cultural anthropologist by training, who studied the geisha of Kyoto in-depth and actually hired-out as one for a period of time. Besides writing a book on her experiences called "Geisha", she has also written a fictionalized autobiography of "Murasaki Shikibu", the authoress of Genji Monogatari / The Tale of Genji.

Her most recent published work deals with a number of topics that focus on the modern (post Meiji) kosode. It also discusses Heian color combinations for the 'juni-hitoe', the influence of the geisha on how the kimono is worn, and the historical evolution of the obi from a narrow sash or cord to the 'monster' it is today.

She makes many observations, which will help us understand how the kimono of today came into being, and perhaps unintentionally suggest ways to reverse the trend toward extinction we see today. She describes earlier styles of wearing the kimono, which could be revived and would take away much of the stiffness (literally), and formality that surrounds the wearing of 'wafuku' (Japanese dress) today.

There are other works that come to mind, but I've selected these because they are well illustrated, written in English, and are still readily available.

Please add your favorites, and be sure to add a brief synopsis to help others gauge whether their interests coincide with yours. This resource should prove invaluable to all of us.

Ki-yo-aki

[Daikan]

:)Ichiro is writing.Thank you very much for your message!
I would like to let all visitors know Mr. Kiyoaki san is our great customer and our 'sensei' (teacher) of our business!

It is great idea to make Bibliography and References of kimono.
It will  be great help to all of us!

I would like to introduce three books.


"The Book of Kimono / The Complete Guide to Style and Wear"
Norio Yamanaka
Kodansha


"Textile Art of Japan"  Sunny Yang, Rochelle M. Narasin
Shufunotomo Co.,LTD

"Design with Japanese Obi" Diane Wiltshire and Ann Whitshire
Charles E. Tuttle Company


The first book has very basic infromation about kimono.
We are learning the English  word about kimono from that book.
Second and third books has many beautiful photos. The third book give us many hint of the display of obi.

These books are helpful for us and great joy to look.
Do you folks know other kimono books?

Ichiro Wada

[chiiyo]

Let us not forget that Liza Dalby's other book 'Geisha' also deals with kimono and how geisha wears them. I find both her books fascinating.

There's also that English book on making your own kimono (whose title and author escapes me for the moment, but it can be found elsewhere in the message boards).

I only own Norio Yamanaka's The Book of Kimono, Liza Dalby's Geisha and Kimono, but I know for sure our local Kinokuniya sells that make your own kimono book (which I intend to purchase the next time I'm in the vicinity). Thank you for all the nice book recommendations. I shall attempt to find them when I go buy my book. I am trying to educate myself on kimono as much as possible. It's a tad hard because I live in an area like Singapore, but I still manage...

By the way, I might be doing a research project on the Ways and Customs of The Edo Period, and intending to focus on the changes of the kosode in that period to illustrate the change of people's ideas and feelings to culminate in the Bakumatsu. (from the opulence of Genroku to the subdued but rebellious feeling in late Edo when iki had arose) Could anyone recommend any book that might help me in my research. Not just about kimono, but also in the ways and customs during that period. Thank you!

[Kiyoaki]

Yuriko-san,

The first work I'd suggest you read is George Samson's three-volume history of Japan. If you wish to focus on Momoyama through Meiji eras alone, volume 3 by itself, will do just fine.

I feel the historical setting is essential, before one can deal with the cultural aspects. Samsone's work deals with the major economic, social and political aspects of Japanese history and then blends them into a coherent millieu, which should provide a solid context for everything else you might read thereafter.

Kiyoaki

[chiiyo]

Thank you very much, I will keep that in mind when I do my project (that is if I get in...there would be a selection process)

Do you know the exact title of the book?

[Kiyoaki]

Yuriko-chan,

I have the reference information you requested. I'm practically certain the Kunikoniya bookstores carry the three-volume set. If they are out of stock, they can order it for you.

A History of Japan by George Sansom
vol. 3 covers the period 1615 - 1867
published by Stanford University Press

Whether you do any further research, or not, I recommend this to anyone, who has an interest in Japanese culture during the Edo Period. This work explores so many fascinating aspects that everyone should find something of interest.

Kiyoaki

[chiiyo]

Thank you. I shall buy it (instead of the make your own kimono), no matter whether I shall get into the project or not. It seems like a fascinating book.

[joval]

Hello again

Just a few books that have been recommended to me but Im not sure if they are available, maybe best to check used book sources.
1.   Kimono - Vanishing Tradition: Japanese Textiles of the 2oth Century by Cheryl Imperatore & Paul McLardy.
A Schiffer Book for Designers and Collectors

2.   Robes of Elegance, Japanese Kimonos of the 16th through 20th Centuries by Ishimura Hayao, Maruyama Nobuhiko, March 1988 now out of print
3  Itchiku Kubota: Kimono in the Tsujigahana Tradition by Jane Barton, Tetsuro Kitamura, Tomoyuki Yamanobe


4   Beyond the Tanabata Bridge: traditional Japanese Textiles. William Jay Rathburn  published by Thames and Hudson 1993


Now some websites for information re Dyeing, design etc.
www.civilisation.ca/cultures/kimono
( this site has a feature on Itchiku Tsujighana : Landscape kimonos- famous designer)
www.mit.edu/jpnet/kimono/index.html
www.jgc.co.jp/waza/index.htm

Bookstore in New York: Kirokuniya Bookstore 10 West 49th Street New York dealing mostly in Japanese books.

Hope these are of some use to someone.

Joval

[[e-mail]]

Not all of these have to do strictly with kimono but may be of interest to others.  I find the ones with the kanzashi and katsura are helpful real-life references for drawing them (woodblock prints are good, yes, but you don't often see the hairstyles from behind or from any other angle besides 3/4 front).

www.fujisan.com/online/superstore/index.html~s066-0650354-7j~

Great place to order kimono magazines from -- and it's in English, too!  I've ordered most of mine from this place.

www.funnyinc.co.jp/

Pictures of kanzashi and katsura.

[urlhttp://www.harapan.co.jp/english/e_books/E_B_art_Japan_guide_media.htm[/url]

"A Reader's Guide to the Arts of Japan"

www.fas.harvard.edu/~asiactr/Asia_Center_Publications.html

Harvard University's Asia Center Publications

www.virtualgi.com/pbm/jpt.htm

Books From Japan

www.g-ori.com/kanzashi.html

More pictures of kanzashi

www.ohayosensei.com/books/tworld.html

Japan Bookstore

www.keganpaul.com/japan/japan.html

Books on Japan

thegroup.net/~janis/ktadabooks.html

Kumihimo books

www.lib.duke.edu/ias/eac/ncc/orderbooks.htm

Ordering Japanese books

www.sundaybooks.bc.ca/indexe.html

Sunday Bookstore

www.ask.ne.jp/~kanzasi/en/e-frame.html

Tsumami-kanzashi

www.tuttlepublishing.com/

Tuttle Publishing


Books on <i>mon</i>:

"Japanese Design Motifs," compiled by the Matsuya Piece-Goods Store and translated by Fumie Adachi
"The Elements of Japanese Design," John Dower

Books on designs and costumes:

"Japanese Costume: History and Tradition," Alan Kennedy
"Snow, Wave, Pine: Traditional Patterns in Japanese Design," Sada Hibi and Motoji Niwa
"Pointers and Clues: To subjects of Chinese and Japanese Art," Will H. Edmunds
"Japanese Costume and the Makers of its Elegant Tradition," Helen B. Minnich
"Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawai'i 1885-1941," Barbara F. Kawakami
"Textiles," Tomoyuki Yamanobe
"Kabuki Costume," Ruth M. Shaver
The 20 volume set about textiles from the Kyoto Shoin's Art Library of Japanese Textiles -- you can occasionally find one or two of the set on eBay

Books on society, culture, etc.:

"Peasants, Rebels, and Outcastes: The Underside of Modern Japan," Mikiso Hane
"Everyday Things In Premodern Japan: The Hidden Legacy of Material Culture," Susan B. Hanley
"Women of the Pleasure Quarters," Lesley Downer
"Japanese Life and Culture in the Meiji Era," Keizo Shibusawa
"The Flower and Willow World: The story of the geisha," A.C. Scott
"Everyday Life in Traditional Japan," Charles J. Dunn

Hope this helps!

[sayuri]

I'm interested in references to assist in more precisely estimating the age of antique kimono (edo/meiji/taisho) by e.g., style, design, dye, materials.  Any suggestions?

[Kiyoaki]

Dear Sayuri,

This is the most difficult area to learn, because no one can publish concise, and specific tips on dating methods. The issues involved are so complex, explaining and memorizing another's method would be as difficult as creating your own.

Your best bet is to carefully read museum catalogues, auction catalogues, and exhibition catalogues. These publications should give detailed descriptions of an item (with a photo), and an estimated date of production. As you read (and re-read) the descriptions, check every statement that is made against your previous knowledge or assumptions.

Over time, you should start to notice the basic differences in garment types, motif selection, decorative compositions, techniques of decoration, fabric types, color combinations, and many other elements. Eventually you will begin formulating your own rules for dating. As you develop your own perspective, apply them to fresh examples to test and refine your judgment.

But, beyond the surface decoration, lie questions of construction, dyes, and fiber composition. It's important to study these areas as well. Often very plain or conservative forms of dress cannot be dated by decoration alone. In those cases, only the construction details of a garment will provide clues, as to its' age.

This may be an area that doesn't concern you at the moment, but the more elements you can intergrate into this process at the begining, the greater success you will have in accurately dating kimono.

But first, you should read (and re-read, then read again), all the first three books I listed. There is no quick fix.

Kiyoaki

P.S. Most catalogues will be out of print, which is why I didn't bother to list any in the first place.

[sayuri]

Dear Kyoaki-

Thanks for the advice and in particular for referring me back to Liza Dalby's book, which had been sitting on my shelf for some time.  I'll have to keep my eyes open for a copy of the Minnich book.

I'd also recommend the Paragon Books website: www.paragonbook.com as a source for books on japanese textiles (and all things asian, for that matter).  The last time I checked they still had the entire 20-volume Kyoto Shoin set available.

Sayuri

[chiiyo]

(Went on Japanese book overkill today and had to carry about 2kg worth of books home.)

Anyway, a book I just borrowed from the library.
The Story of the Kimono by Jill Liddell, E.P. Dutton New York.

I haven't read the book yet but my friend says it's marvellous. From what I've seen of the book it seems to contain many coloured and annotated pictures of many things, not only kimono, but also close-ups of fabrics. I think it mostly concerns itself with the history of kimono and basically how history changed the way kimono was worn.

[[e-mail]]

www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/

An excellent website on costumes from the different eras.  Each doll also comes with a short explanation.

[Fujitsubo]

Symbols of Japan by Merrily Baird (Rizzoli International Publications, Inc.) is the best book for identifying design motifs in Asian textiles, pottery. netsuke, etc.  Light years better than anything else I've seen.  It is available through Amazon.  <br>
And I don't know what the policy is for disagreeing with a book recommended here, but I found Kimono: Vanishing Tradition not much more than a catelogue of the authors' collection, lacking in substantive information.  Just an opinion

[sayuri]

Two additional books to recommend, one recent, one old (with publisher information at Kiyoaki's suggestion  ):

Kyoto Style: Trends in 16th-19th Century Kimono:  Special exhibition catalog from (and published by) the Kyoto National Museum containing lavish photos of kimono and accessories from its collection as well as paintings and prints depicting period dress.  Although some of the pieces appear in other references, the book is notable for its close-up images of many of the pieces.  I should point out that the text is in Japanese with English summaries and exhibit descriptions.

Legend in Japanese Art: A description of historical episodes, legendary characters, folk-lore, myths, religious symbolism in the arts of old Japan.  Henri L.  Joly.  This 600+ page illustrated encylopedia, written in the early 1900's, provides a fascinating and exhaustive explanation of subjects portrayed in Japanese art.  This was initially published in 1908 by John Lane The Bodley Head, London; my 1967 edition was published by Tuttle.

[Kiyoaki]

Sayuri,

Could you add the publisher's names to your reply?  It would help anyone that needs to do a book search.  You can modify your entry by using the 'modify' icon on your existing message, rather than writing a whole new one.

Thanks,
Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

In response to a few people, who have inquired about the Japanese 'mon', I have one work to recommend. Although there are several reprints of versions that were published by kimono makers in the Edo Period, this is the first work that attempts to outline the historical development of the mon in English.

Although the research is not definitve, more than most, it does 'name' names, and tries to identify, which families used which crests. It does have some drawbacks. It doesn't always explain what the motifs are. Then again, it tends to confuse some people more that it helps [i.e. when it shows several variants of one design that is used by only one clan, or identifies several clans that use the same mon]. However it is the best English text I've seen so far.

Mon: The Japanese Family Crest
by Kei Kaneda Chappelear & W. M. Hawley
ISBN #0-910704-93-7
Published by Frances Hawley of 8200 Gould Avenue
Hollywood, Ca. 90046
1st published 1976; revised 1994

Kiyoaki

[Kiyoaki]

AndyZ,

I came across a publication you might be interested in acquiring, which relates to your work. I haven't perused a copy first hand, but what I did see looked like it might cover both motifs and ornaments.

Japanese Ornament: 17 - 19C
T. Cambridge Library of Ornamental Art
[ I don't have additional details. I hope this will prove sufficent for your purposes.]

Kiyoaki

[bawsin]

Thought I'd add another title to the bibliography. It's not in the top rank of kimono-related books, but still may be of interest to others, especially if you can pick it up inexpensively second-hand (as I did).

Japanese Detail: Fashion by Sadao Hibi
Publisher: Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1989 (138 pp.)
First published by Graphic-Sha Publishing Co., Ltd., Japan, 1987 as Nihon no dentoh iro to katachi.

The chapter titles are: Nostalgia for Color and Form: The Kimono (an essay), Patterns of the Kimono, Figures and Patterns, Clothing, Obi and Braids, Fukusa, Toilet Articles, Combs and Hairpins, Fans and Folding Fans, Smoking Accessories, Umbrellas and Clogs, Yukata, Hanten, Tsutsugaki, Sewing Sets, Beliefs, Glossary.

This is a softcover coffee-table book with huge, lavish photographs and a paucity of description or analysis. It's described as "a visually stunning survey of the colors, shapes, and patterns used in traditional clothing and accessories. Three hundred photographs... capture the serene beauty to be found even in commonplace clothing and personal articles." Sadly, the breadth of topics covered in this book means that just as you tuck nicely into a topic, it's over. The emphasis in this book is distinctly on the images.

The Figures and Patterns chapter is one of the better ones, naming and illustrating (although not describing) many traditional designs. The Clothing chapter is frequently baffling, showing us several specialty garments in quick succession - sobatsugi, kariginu and atsuita - without defining or explaining any of them; the neophyte must consult the Glossary to learn what these are. The overview of "clothing" is extremely limited and weighted towards ceremonial/Noh items. The following chapter on obi is similarly short. The Yukata chapter illustrates many different indigo prints, along with some tenugui, while the Tsutsugaki chapter has some nice examples.

In short, some beautiful examples of wafuku, nicely photographed but with little accompanying information or interpretation. Eye candy for the kimono enthusiast!