Iromuji - formality of the crestless kind?

[bawsin]

Hi, I'm hoping that someone here can advise me on the specifics of wearing iromuji - solid-colour kimono - for Chado, the tea ceremony. In particular I'm trying to find out more about how an iromuji without mon (crest) ranks in the hierarchy of formality.

I have one iromuji with mon (crest), but my other one is undecorated. The one without the mon fits me better!

Now, my understanding is that a single-crested iromuji is ideal for Chado - or at least, it's ideal for the host to wear, as it's more formal than an iromuji without crest.

I've read that an iromuji with a single crest is rated above a houmongi in terms of formality. But exactly where does an iromuji *without* crest fit into the formality hierarchy? Is it still considered to be at least somewhat formal? Does it rank, perhaps, on the level of a tsukesage? (I notice that the Yamatoku site includes iromuji among its tsukesage.) Or does the crestless iromuji rate much more casually - say, a whisker above the level of komon?

And for anyone here who takes part in Chado: is a crestless iromuji acceptable for the guest to wear, but not the host? Or is there a fair bit of flexibility on this point?

Many thanks for any light that anyone can shed.

bawsin

[Kiyoaki]

I think the crestless iromuji falls into the grey area between formality and casualness. Perhaps the accessories would decide the issue. A high-style obi, and perhaps an obi-dome could lift it from casual to the 'dressy informal' level (if there is such a thing, and if that is the look you want to achieve).

It may depend on how formal the occasion is going to be. If a meal is to be served, then a decidely, a formal kimono is warranted. For just o-cha and okashi, one-on-one, I'd think you could get away with it if both parties are on informal terms.

If more guests that are expected, I suppose a formal kimono would then be a must as long as everything was in keeping in wabi/sabi taste.

[HikaruNoGo]

So, I can wear a fukuro obi or a maru obi with a crestless iromuji?

[Kiyoaki]

I don't think many would be able to tell which type you were wearing, except perhaps from the design. Then again, perhaps a maru-obi might be pushing things a bit far. I don't thing the 'jeans and blazer' look can ever be considered good fashion, and perhaps that would be the outcome if you put the two items together. Then too, there are so many styles possible in maru-obi, so it's perhaps possible to mix the two. You just need to be very thoughful about your choice.

[bawsin]

Last month I wore a brocade fukuro obi (gold with other colours) to accompany a pink iromuji without mon. This was at the advice of my tea teacher. She asked me to serve as her hanto (assistant) at Hatsugama, a special tea event to celebrate Japanese New Year. When I showed her the handful of kimono and obi I own that are in mint condition or close to it, she chose those two for the event.

So it seems it IS possible to wear fukuro obi with crestless iromuji. I guess what I'm not clear about is how much more desirable an iromuji with one mon (or three) would be in a typical tea situation. Hatsugama is an unusually festive occasion, so it's hard to know how much to extrapolate from that one event! Furthermore, my teacher may have bent the rules a little in view of my limited selection of garments. So I still feel a bit tentative about the whole thing.

I will try to ask my teacher when she gets back from Japan. However, her English is limited and my Japanese is almost non-existent! If I am able to learn any clear guidelines, I'll be happy to share them.

bawsin

[Kiyoaki]

Rather than "desirable" I'd put it more as a matter of "appropriateness". Each kimono type has a distinct place on the formality scale, so the idea is to match the kimono to the occasion. Perhaps a special time, like the first tea ceremony performed in the New Year, or the presecence of a distinguished guest might suggest a crested iromuji. If you're just going to take lessons, I would expect a great deal more leeway and informality in possible choices. There is less of a set reply to your question, other then to get advice from your sensei regarding the nuances of dressing in kimono.

[bawsin]

Kiyoaki san said:

<< Each kimono type has a distinct place on the formality scale, so the idea is to match the kimono to the occasion. >>

I'm sure the first part of your statement is right. But the more I've tried to research this, the more I've been struck by the complete lack of clarity on this one point where the "unmonned" iromuji is concerned.

For example, on page 184 of Kimono: Fashioning Culture, Liza Dalby quotes an article on iromuji that contains the "following specialized advice":

<< A one-crested monochrome kimono [iromuji], on the other hand, just makes it into the category of formal wear, so it can use the added weight of a crest dyed in its full sun version. >>

See, this implies that an uncrested silk iromuji cannot be formal. And sure enough, if you look at Dalby's comprehensive chart on pp. 172-73 (which shows what might be called the kimono "formality spectrum"), iromuji without mon is conspicuously absent from the sole formal category it might fit into: namely, Haregi (special)>Formal>No Crest side.

The problem is, silk iromuji without mon doesn't fit on the Fudangi (everyday-wear) side, either, as it is neither a class of Street wear (komon), nor is it made of a Casual fabric such as cotton or wool.

Curiouser and curiouser!

Anyway, I will certainly ask my tea teacher when she returns from Japan, and will be happy to let people know what she says. I must say, I'm really in suspense to hear her answer! The more tidbits I've learned about iromuji, the more intrigued I've become...

bawsin

P.S. Modifying this post to say that I just found a webpage that seems to accord with what Kiyoaki san said earlier, namely, that the formality of a crestless iromuji can be adjusted upwards according to the obi that accompanies it. The webpage is in Japanese, but it's easy to read through a translator:
www.sensho.jp/kumiai/kimono_obi.html