Post by Kiyoaki on Aug 6, 2002 20:22:45 GMT -5
John,
The version described below is a combination of the modern one for men with some improvisation. Pictures can never give you a complete sequence of action, so I'll try a verbal description instead. Some of what is presented here will be a repetition of earlier postings, but for convenience, having everything in one place will simplify the entire process for anyone that needs to try this method. The secret to wearing hakama is tying them on properly. The secret to tying them on properly is to properly tie the obi, and adjusting the kimono beforehand.
This may seem like an unneccessary step to discuss, but there are some tricks to be learned here. Whether you wear the skirt form or the older divided type, I think it helps to be able to walk as freely as possible once you're finally dressed. To accomplish that, shorten up the kimono so that the hem is slightly lower than the knee.
Traditionally kimonos were also made in 3/4 length, so this was not a problem. Nowadays, everything seems to be only full length so some adjustments are needed to compensate. The usual way of shortening the length is to blouse the extra material at the waist. The easiest way to accomplish this is to place the eri on the crown of your head; then close the lapels normally. Temporarily secure the front closure with a cord. Next let the collar settle on your neck and adjust the fullness so it's level all the way 'round. Now you can put on the obi.
Before we do that though, you need to consider other things first. Do you eventually want to remove the cord or leave it in place? In either case, I would recommend against knotting it. By simply twisting it over and under a few times, the loose ends can be tucked in without creating excessive thickness. If you decide to remove it later, the process will be much simpler too. If you leave it under the obi, there is less likelihood it will bind and cut into your abdomen or sides.
Of course the kimono must still cover the legs at the sides, so you may need to compromise on a lower hem line. Alternatively you could dress normally but take the outer lapel and fold it on a diagonal so the tip can be tucked under the obi. This will permit a freer stride, which is the whole point of this process.
Although this next step will be largely covered by the hakama, the effort you make now will affect the ease with which everything progress and the final look of the hakama itself, so do not overlook these details. In the way of preparation, some of the following comments will not apply to everyone. Nevertheless, they are included for the sake of completeness and to offer additonal insights into achieving our final 'look'.
Before tying on the obi, consider your own physique first. More specifically: Do you have a flat abdomen or a belly? For better or worse, it's easier to tie on the hakama if there is some fullness in your lower abdomen. If you don't have any to speak of, the remedy is simple.
Take a small dish cloth or wash towel and fold it into a band that is slightly narrower than the obi itself. Lay this band in the bloused fold of the kimono where the obi will sit. You'll want its' length to be less than half your waist measurement, for the best effect. The idea is to create fullness in the front only.
Now we come to tying on the obi. You will definitely need a kaku-obi. Take approximately two feet of one end and fold it in half lengthwise. With the folded edge up, place it against your body at a 45o slant with the trailing end off to your right. Hold the folded end and start winding the obi in a clockwise direction [i.e. right backwards, then left frontward] around your torso.
Once you have done this twice, you can release the first end of the obi. Adjust the windings so they lie precisely atop each other. Now either remove the temporary cord that held the kimono closed and/or adjust the towel for best effect. You will want to achieve a compromise between tension (so nothing will shift out of position) and comfort (so you can breathe easily).
Continue winding until four or five feet remain. Take the loose end of the obi and fold it in half lengthwise for a foot or so where it meets the starting end. Always keep the folded edge up. Hold this portion in the left hand hand while you take the starting end and fold it over the trailing end at a sharp, downward angle, bringing it underneath and up behind the left end to form a simple twist. Both ends should stay flat and not become bunched into a thick knot. Think in terms of folding rather than tying.
The version described below is a combination of the modern one for men with some improvisation. Pictures can never give you a complete sequence of action, so I'll try a verbal description instead. Some of what is presented here will be a repetition of earlier postings, but for convenience, having everything in one place will simplify the entire process for anyone that needs to try this method. The secret to wearing hakama is tying them on properly. The secret to tying them on properly is to properly tie the obi, and adjusting the kimono beforehand.
Putting on the Kimono
This may seem like an unneccessary step to discuss, but there are some tricks to be learned here. Whether you wear the skirt form or the older divided type, I think it helps to be able to walk as freely as possible once you're finally dressed. To accomplish that, shorten up the kimono so that the hem is slightly lower than the knee.
Traditionally kimonos were also made in 3/4 length, so this was not a problem. Nowadays, everything seems to be only full length so some adjustments are needed to compensate. The usual way of shortening the length is to blouse the extra material at the waist. The easiest way to accomplish this is to place the eri on the crown of your head; then close the lapels normally. Temporarily secure the front closure with a cord. Next let the collar settle on your neck and adjust the fullness so it's level all the way 'round. Now you can put on the obi.
Before we do that though, you need to consider other things first. Do you eventually want to remove the cord or leave it in place? In either case, I would recommend against knotting it. By simply twisting it over and under a few times, the loose ends can be tucked in without creating excessive thickness. If you decide to remove it later, the process will be much simpler too. If you leave it under the obi, there is less likelihood it will bind and cut into your abdomen or sides.
Of course the kimono must still cover the legs at the sides, so you may need to compromise on a lower hem line. Alternatively you could dress normally but take the outer lapel and fold it on a diagonal so the tip can be tucked under the obi. This will permit a freer stride, which is the whole point of this process.
Tying the Obi
Although this next step will be largely covered by the hakama, the effort you make now will affect the ease with which everything progress and the final look of the hakama itself, so do not overlook these details. In the way of preparation, some of the following comments will not apply to everyone. Nevertheless, they are included for the sake of completeness and to offer additonal insights into achieving our final 'look'.
Before tying on the obi, consider your own physique first. More specifically: Do you have a flat abdomen or a belly? For better or worse, it's easier to tie on the hakama if there is some fullness in your lower abdomen. If you don't have any to speak of, the remedy is simple.
Take a small dish cloth or wash towel and fold it into a band that is slightly narrower than the obi itself. Lay this band in the bloused fold of the kimono where the obi will sit. You'll want its' length to be less than half your waist measurement, for the best effect. The idea is to create fullness in the front only.
Now we come to tying on the obi. You will definitely need a kaku-obi. Take approximately two feet of one end and fold it in half lengthwise. With the folded edge up, place it against your body at a 45o slant with the trailing end off to your right. Hold the folded end and start winding the obi in a clockwise direction [i.e. right backwards, then left frontward] around your torso.
Once you have done this twice, you can release the first end of the obi. Adjust the windings so they lie precisely atop each other. Now either remove the temporary cord that held the kimono closed and/or adjust the towel for best effect. You will want to achieve a compromise between tension (so nothing will shift out of position) and comfort (so you can breathe easily).
Continue winding until four or five feet remain. Take the loose end of the obi and fold it in half lengthwise for a foot or so where it meets the starting end. Always keep the folded edge up. Hold this portion in the left hand hand while you take the starting end and fold it over the trailing end at a sharp, downward angle, bringing it underneath and up behind the left end to form a simple twist. Both ends should stay flat and not become bunched into a thick knot. Think in terms of folding rather than tying.
(continued in next reply)